GUIDE TO HEALTH PROBLEMS

In general Rhacodactylus are one of the easiest gecko species to keep, needing no specialist lighting (except when using real plants) no additional heating (providing the correct temps are met). That said this doesn't mean they are never ill at all, if their diet and husbandry needs are not met they can and do get ill.

ALWAYS QUARANTINE any new animals before introducing them into any enclosures containing your own geckos,if possible in a seperate room. Another thing to remember is that all reptiles in general only show signs of illness when it is quite advanced,so you need to be extra careful in keeping an eye on your geckos.

The Rhacodactylus species can live for 20 years plus so before you think about buying that cute little hatchling, ask yourself if you are prepared to give it the care and love it will require for the rest of its life.

When buying your gecko whether from a shop or private breeder look at the enclosure they are being kept in, is it clean are there any unpleasant odours. Next ask if you can handle the gecko (make sure you wash your hands in between handling any geckos) try to remember if it is a very young gecko it may be very quick and even try to leap from your hand. Keep calm and just let the gecko walk from one hand to the other. Please try not to grab it suddenly as it could drop its tail. (see the Crested Gecko)
Whilst you have hold of the gecko look at way it moves in your hand, does it move its legs freely or are they floppy, do the joints look swollen, alsolook at the base of the tail and hip joints, do they bend to the side (these are signs of MBD). Next look at the skin does it look and feel smooth, if there is quite a bit of skin adhering to the gecko especially the toes and the end of the tail, this is usually a sign of insufficient humidity in the enclosure but could indicate other more serious problems with the geckos health.

You should already have a specialist reptile vet in place before purchasing your gecko.
It is no good waiting until something happens as by then it may be too late.

I don't profess to know everything but can give advice if asked, although if it is something I feel I cannot deal with I will tell you, and then advise you to seek advice from your own vet.

I have a very good relationship with my vet, she is extremely knowledgable in regards to reptiles and is the only vet I would trust to treat any of my animals. I have been using the same vet since 1998-99 and have learned along the way how to treat the more common signs of illness ie; pinworms, early calcium deficiency etc. Although this being the case I would still  prefer you to seek the advice of your vet first. This is because the signs which the gecko is presenting could have an underlying cause (which could result in the death of your gecko if not diagnosed properly). This is why you will not see me advertising particular products to use, these are all well and good if your vet has determined the cause of your gecko/s illness in the first place.

Calcium Deficiency (Metabolic Bone Disease)

Rhacodactylus hatchlings increase their weight by several hundred percent in their first year. Take the crested gecko for example they can increase their weight by 2000% from about 1.5 grams to 35 grams plus, so they need a certain amount of calcium in their diet to help build their skeleton, as well as a source of vitamin D3 to help absorb the calcium.

How do you know if your gecko is suffering from MBD? One of the early signs is twitching of the toes and/or tail, if caught at this early stage it is easily treated. If these early signs are ignored the condition will get progressively worse. When MBD becomes severe the legs of the gecko may become swollen and may flop out to the sides and be unable to support the weight of the body at all. If the geckos jaw is affected and becomes soft the gecko will be unable to eat and if left untreated will die.

Breeding females are especially susceptible to MBD, obviously after laying a clutch of eggs she has used up quite a bit of her calcium reserves, when the eggs pass through the shell gland a female that is only slightly deficient can crash and become 'jelly-boned' overnight. So it is vitally important to ensure your females have a really good diet, and if needed extra calcium and before breeding begins. Obviously any female that is calcium deficient should be separated, and housed on her own. During this period she should be recieving extra calcium, and generally pampered untill fully recovered and not bred from (depending on the severity of the deficiency) until the following season. Special attention must be paid to female chahoua in particular when breeding (see chahoua section).

If your gecko is already displaying signs of MBD a liquid calcium can be administered through an oral syringe or eye dropper, this  will only work if the MBD has not gone too far and your gecko is still able to swallow.
To administer the liquid place a drop on the end of the geckos nose and they will usually lick it off, this treatment will of course need repeating at regular intervals. If the gecko is unable to swallow, then it is time to visit your vet, who may administer the calcium via injection.

Hypercalcemia (Overdosing on D3)

In rare cases it is sometimes possible to have an excess of calcium. This occurs when too much vitamin D3 has been administered, although it is needed for the absorption of calcium, when used alongside calcium supplements it can result in an overdose of calcium.

Reptiles in general are able to regulate the amount of calcium their bodies absorbs, the rest being excreted in the faeces. The problem occurs when adding your own calcium (for dusting crix or adding to a food mix) which has vitamin D already added. This vitamin encourages the reptile to absorb excess calcium, which eventually leads to hypercalcemia, a very serious condition.

A good way to prevent this happening is to feed one of the complete diets, and if feeding insects to lightly dust in the vitamins only once or twice a week. If your gecko has an excess of calcium the symptoms are very similar to a deficiency, (swollen limbs ect) a good way to tell is to look inside the geckos mouth at the endolymphatic sacs (calcium sacs) to see if they are full. These are located in the roof of the mouth below the eye sockets. To enable you to see the calcium sacs, gently tap your gecko on the side of its mouth and it should open enough for you to see them. So if the calcium sacs are full but your gecko is displaying the symptoms of calcium deficiency, then you are probably over doing it on the calcium.

     Please don't try to force your geckos mouth open as you may damage it !!!

                              Below is one of my geckos clearly showing full calcium sacs.

Zig-Zag Tail

This is the name given when your geckos tail has kinks (zigzags) along its length, this is another one of the early signs of calcium deficiency. It is most commonly seen in R.chahoua and R. auriculatus, especially after laying a few clutches of eggs. This is usually easily remedied with diet and supplementation, if done immediately.

Floppy Tail Syndrome (FTS)

This is when the tail flops down to one side or straight over the back when the gecko is resting in the head down position, this does seem to affect geckos kept in all glass enclosures more than those being housed in wooden vivariums. Floppy tail can also be a sign of MBD but my personal opinion is unless other symptoms are presenting, it is due to the position of the gecko and the weight of the tail itself, especially if the tail is quite a thick one. Some people are of the opinion that it may be genetic, (but not enough data of geckos with this problem has been collected yet)  Once the tail is bent like this it will remain so, this is because the thin zygapophyses that form the interarticular surfaces between the vertebrae can fracture. Sometimes the weight of the tail can cause the pelvis to bend to one side, this can get progressivly worse as time goes on. Whilst this is not much of a problem for males, if a female is affected it can have serious consequences for her breeding ability, in as much as she may be unable to pass the eggs through the pelvis because it is out of alignment.

You have to remember that in the wild hardly any adults have a tail, they have probably dropped them to escape a predator, and since they dont regrow them its possibly to do with the fact they dont really need them, and would be much quicker at escaping a predator without their tail. Also in the wild they dont have to contended with smooth verticle surfaces, so I really am of the opinion its a problem that has occured due to the geckos being in captivity.                                                                                                                     

Below is a link to a forum in USA about floppy tail, it discusses the idea of making the gecko drop its tail to prevent more damage.

http://www.pangeareptile.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6014

I am of the opinion that if the tail was seriously affecting the geckos pelvis or spine, then I would rather the tail was taken off. Of course you can make your own mind up about it.

Burns

This is perhaps a problem most associated with keeping snakes. But can apply to those of you who use a heat source for your geckos, if you are using a heat source you should also be using a thermostat, a bulb should have a guard covering it, though this in itself can get hot. If you are using a heat pad, this should be placed on the outside of the enclosure. I have seen cases of reptiles being badly burned from heatpads, if your gecko burns its feet, then the lamellae (sticky pads) will be damaged beyond repair and will NOT grow back. This means your gecko will no longer be able to climb smooth surfaces any more.(I dont use any heat source at all with any of the Rhacs, and have successfully kept and bred them for 10 years)

Shedding Problems

Usually Rhacodactylus have no problem sloughing (shedding) their skin, the exceptions are when they are ill, calcium deficient, weak or dehydrated. Provide a water bowl whilst still misting at least once a day, more regularly in warmer weather and for hatchlings, a dehydrated gecko will have problems sloughing its skin, sometimes to the extent that the skin gets so tight as to stick to the new skin underneath. In addition to rehydrating the gecko by offering water via a syringe, or from the end your finger, more frequent misting will aid in helping the gecko slough the old skin. This is particularly important with hatchlings and juveniles, as the skin can get so dry and tighten especially on the toes, that it can restrict the blood flow causing the toes to die and drop off. When misting a gecko which is having difficulty in shedding, remember to mist the enclosure not the gecko, as this can cause the skin to stick to the gecko making it harder for the gecko (or you) to remove the skin.

If your gecko has been ill you may need to help with the process of sloughing, at least removing the old skin from the head, toes and tail. If you find none of this is working for your gecko, you can take a small container or deli cup (depending on the size of the gecko) with a lid on, put some damp kitchen roll, paper towel or spagnum moss in the bottom of the container and place the gecko gently inside and leave alone for an hour or so (keep checking) the humidity inside should help to soften the skin and make it easier for you to remove. There are product on the market designed to help with the shedding if it has become stuck such as Zoo-med repti-shedding aid, another is Beaphar reptile eye and skin ointment, there are other products on the market as well. We ourselves have not tried these products but you may want to try them if you are having problems with stuck shed skin.

Dehydration

An early sign of minor dehydration is a wrinkled skin, in severe dehydration their head and eyes will begin to sink in, and the gecko will become very lethargic, if not treated at this stage by your vet the gecko will die very quickly.

Weight Loss

One of the reasons a Rhacodactylus gecko may be losing weight is if it is suffering from an intestinal disorder and/or parasites. Lots of reptiles carry protazoa in their guts to some extent, but is when the reptile (in this case a gecko) is run down, or ill the protoza can mulitply and cause problems for the gecko. To determine the cause of your geckos weight loss you should visit your vet, who may take a fecal sample to determine the course of treatment needed.  Weight loss could also simply be due to stress of breeding, our males in particular lose a bit of weight during the breeding season as they are too busy chasing the females around to bother to eat too much. Obviously females can lose weight over the breeding season due to the fact that she is laying eggs, but we reccomend you weigh your females at least once a month to keep an eye on their weights to ensure none are dropping below the reccomended breeding weight which is 35 grams. Another problem can be impaction - please read the section below on this issue.
Another more serious issue which has affected crested geckos in particular is caused by Entamoeba Invadins.

We would ask all Crested Gecko owners to read the following links
http://www.reptiles.repashy.com/resources.htm

http://www.veterinaria.uchile.cl/pub...onal/exo/6.doc

PLEASE DON'T TRY TO TREAT THESE YOURSELF, UNLESS YOU ARE 100% CERTAIN WHAT THE PROBLEM IS.

Impaction

This problem usually occurs when the gecko is hunting live food, when trying to catch (bite) the cricket/cockroach etc the gecko can accidently get a mouthful of substrate. If this happens the gecko may not be able to pass the obstruction.
A gecko that is suffering from impaction will probably not want to eat, lose weight, and become lethargic. To find out if your gecko is suffering from impaction, gently palpate the tummy area, you may feel hard lumps that are in the intestines. Although certain items which may cause impaction may not be palpable. If you notice the problem quickly, before the gecko is too ill, you can try soaking the gecko in warm water, while gently massaging the tummy. Although we do recomend that you seek the advice of your vet, who can give the gecko a laxative, of course this doesn't always work and in the end the vet may decide to operate to remove the obstruction. With such small delicate animals the operation can in itself be quite dangerous, but without this proceedure your gecko would die.

Mouth Rot

This is another disease usually associated with snakes, although I have seen photo's of  geckos with mouth rot, it is not something I have ever encounted in my own geckos. You should be aware that mouth rot in reptiles can sometimes be a secondary factor in an underlying cause. This would need veterinary treatment and therefore we will not recommend that you treat this yourself.

Mites

The red mite which affects Rhacodactylus in the wild is rarely seen in collections now, and only affects the Rhacodactylus species. It does not spread very easily and as here in the UK almost all of the Rhacs are captive bred it shouldn't be a problem that British herpetologists need worry about, however if you were unlucky enough too have mites in your collection a trip to the vets would solve the problem quickly and easily with a spray to kill the mites on the gecko,and treat the enclosure. The snake mite (Ophionyssus natricis) is obviously by name more commonly seen on snakes BUT if you keep snakes in the same room as your Rhacs then there is always a risk on it being transferred from your snakes to the Rhacs. These mites suck blood, they annoy the reptile as they are extremely itchy, they are potential vectors for the transmission of serious diseases, and they can be difficult to eliminate once in place.  There are products o the market specifically designed to eliminate the mites BUT these are designed for snakes and although you probably could treat with these products I would prefer you to see your vet to ensure the dosage rate of the treatment.

Prolapse

This usually affects male geckos, particularly when breeding. The male has two hemipenes, though only one is used at a time. (a single one is called a hemipenis) Normally the hemipenes are held inverted inside the males body, and are everted during mating. After mating they should invert back inside the male, however occaisionally they may get some substrate stuck on them (before he has cleaned them) which can cause them to swell, making retraction through the cloacal opening impossible. If they do not invert
on there own you will have to intervene to stop dessication (drying out) of the tissues.
You can clean the area with warm water and then apply a sugar and water solution to try and reduce the swelling.
You should make up a small amount of this mixture and get a container large enough for the gecko to fit in comfortably. Place  some kitchen roll/towel on the bottom, pour the mixture into the container, gently place the  gecko inside and leave it to soak for a while. If you happened to notice the prolapse shortly after it happened they may shrink down and invert back inside the gecko with the sugar and water solution.

Trauma

The most common causes of injury in your geckos is from overcrowding, male to male aggression, and during breeding season. With overcrowding there are too many geckos competing for space and food, eg; sometimes two or more geckos will go after the same prey item (crickets/cockroaches ect) one will end up being bitten albeit accidentally. If it is from overcrowding you will end up with one at the bottom of the pecking order and this gecko will not be able to compete for food, and will end up being ill (as well as bullied) and if not removed will probably die from stress and/or injury.

Male to male fighting should NOT occur, since once it becomes apparent that you have two males together you should, remove one of them and house him seperately, untill he is sold or old enough to be housed with a female.

When breeding the males can get over excited and bite the female not on the neck crests as is normal, but on the feet and/or the tail. Bites to the feet can result in lost toes if infection sets in, and of course the tail can be lost. Once a crested has dropped its tail, it does not regrow, the chahoua's tail only grows about one to two inches, the gargoyle does regrow a lost tail although it never looks as nice as the original, being a darker colour than before and without the patterning. I have never seen a sarasin gecko without a tail, but if lost they will regrow them.

I have put the little crested gecko shown below under the heading Trauma (the owner is unsure of how it started). The day after this lady got her crested, she noticed the eye was very swollen, she contacted the  breeder and was told they hadn't noticed anything wrong. An appointment was made to see a reptile specialist Veterinary surgeon, who thought without operating it would be impossible to make a 100% diagoses.  

Because the crested gecko was very small the vet thought an operation was just too risky, and decided instead to use a steroid injection into the eye after first aspirating the eye (where a lot of clear liquid was removed) After this the gecko was fine for about 2 weeks, after which the eye became black and filled up again, another vet visit and injection followed. It seems that the treatment works for about 2-3 weeks before the eye needs draining again. At the moment the owner has been shown by the vet how to administer the injections herself, and is monitoring the cresteds progress, but if thing don't improve there may be no alternative but to operate.

                              (Photographs with permission of Sue (a friend of mine)

Poppy - The first two pics show the swelling of the eye before the injections, the last pic shows the eye after the visit.

PROBLEMS IN THE EGG?

Below is a gargoyle I bred a few years ago, and kept her myself. As you can see her right eye is under developed, she has no trouble eating, but I did hand feed her the live food. I think it may have been caused by fluctuating temperatures in the incubator during the summer months, as I have never had another with this problem since. Her name is Wee-Eye.

TIME TO SAY GOODBYE

We would all like our geckos to live forever, but sadly this isn't possible. When the time comes (whether it be from illness or hopefully old age) and your gecko is no longer enjoying a happy healthy life then it is time to let them go.

Please take it to your vet and have it put to sleep as painlessly as possible.

PLEASE DO NOT PUT YOUR GECKO IN THE FREEZER.

This has been a method used by some reptile keepers, it is both a slow and painful death. Ice crystals form inside the reptile, causing distress and pain, since reptiles are COLD BLOODED it can take a long time for them to die.